Shirley's Machine Quilting

Frequently Asked Questions

Booking:

• How do I arrange for a date on your calendar?
  ~ Please call or email to determine my next open date.
  ~ Your quilt will be finished approximately 4 weeks after I receive it.

• Do you require a deposit?
  ~ Yes, 50% is required when I receive your quilt top, and the balance is due upon pickup, or before quilt is return shipped to you.
  

Quilt Prep:

• How do I prepare my quilt for quilting?
  ~ Make sure your quilt top an backing are both 'square.'  That is, the corners should form 90* right angles.
  ~ If your outer border is heavily pieced, please baste around the edges to secure the seams.
  ~ Borders that are either too long or too short for the top will have extra 'fullness' that could cause pleats or puckers. Please see Border Tips at the bottom of the page for help in sewing on  borders.
  ~ Please clip all stray threads from the right and wrong side of the top.
  ~ Press both the quilt top and backing.
  ~ Indicate the top edge of the quilt and the backing by pinning a safety pin to it, in case your quilt or backing is 'directional.'
  

Backing:

• Do you provide backing?
  ~ No, you must provide suitable backing for your quilt.

• What do I need to know about providing the backing?
  ~ I recommend that you use a quality fabric, that is the same fiber content as the quilt top. That is, cotton quilt/cotton back; batik quilt/batik back.
  ~ When choosing a backing fabric, keep in mind the thread that will be used in quilting. I match the top and bobbin threads, so whatever is on the top will be the same as on the back. I recommend using a patterned backing fabric to visually minimize any stops and starts, as well as the bobbin thread. Of course, if you want the quilting to really stand out on the back, use a solid fabric.
  ~ The quilt back must be 6" - 8" larger than the quilt top, both horizontally and vertically.

• Can I use a sheet?
  ~ Sheets are very tightly woven and create thread tension problems that are difficult, if not impossible, to resolve. Therefore, no, I will not accept a  sheet as a backing.
  

Batting:

• What kinds of batting do you use?
  ~ I use Pellon Legacy battings exclusively. I find their quality is outstanding, and their prices reasonable. I am an authorized distributor of Legacy Battings. If you're interested in buying an entire 30' roll or 15 yd bolt, please call or email for prices. I sell both wholesale & retail.

• Can I supply my own batting?
  ~ I'm happy to use your batting if it's good quality, low - mid loft, and if it's 6" - 8" longer and wider than the quilt top. Mountain Mist battings will not be accepted, because their flimsy-ness isn't suitable for the longarm.
  ~ FYI - batting on the roll is more cost effective for you and me, which is why it's my choice for batting. Packaged, folded batts have wrinkles and stretched spots, which may not lay smoothly when I load it on the longarm table. Sometimes there are thinner and thicker areas in the packaged batt that may not be evident until the batting is unfolded. I encourage you to avail yourself of my rolled battings. Plus, you're only charged for the amount I actually use on your quilt, so there's no waste.
  

Thread:

• What kind of thread do you use?
  ~ Primarily I use Superior threads: King Tut, So Fine, and Bottom Line. If you'd like a different thread used, please enquire - I may have it.

• Is there a thread change charge?
  ~ Yes: $4 for solids and $8 for variegateds. In addition, if you'd like me to use several thread colors on your quilt, there's a thread change charge of $2 per thread.

• Is there an extra charge for metallics or monofilament?
  ~ I don't use either of these due to tension and breakage issues. I do have an extensive selection of threads, however, and am certain we can select one that perfectly complements your quilt.
  

Quilting Styles:

• What is Meandering?
  ~ Meandering is primarily a freehand, puzzle-piece type of quilting. The charge varies according to density. This type of quilting ignores seam lines and borders, and goes from one edge of the quilt straight to the other side. no other elements are included. The different styles of meandering are listed on the Pricing page.

• What is Freehand quilting?
  ~ When freehand quilting, I choose a design that I feel will best complement your quilt, and, without a set pattern, I quilt it into your quilt. The design itself is something that I come up with on my own. The charge varies according to the density and complexity of the design, and includes one border at no charge. I will be happy to show you samples, or draw out a few ideas when your quilt is delivered for quilting. Any samples drawn by me will not be allowed to leave my studio. The different styles of Freehand quilting are on the Pricing page.

• What is Custom quilting?
  ~ Custom quilting is used on any quilt needing stitch-in-the-ditch, motifs quilted in alternate blocks, or repetetive techniques such as cross-hatchin or Baptist Fan. One border is included at no charge.

• What is Heirloom quilting?
  ~ Heirloom quilting is an extension of Custom quilting, and includes dense stippling, small cross-hatching, fine echo-quilting around appliques, etc., and includes on border treatment at no charge. Trapunto work is an additional $100 flat fee over and above the Heirloom fee. Any intended show quilt is recommended to be either Custom or Heirloom quilted.
  

Mailing:

• What if I'm too far to bring my quilt to your studio?
  ~ I do quilt for out of state customers, and in that event, an email or phone consultation can be arranged to discuss your quilt.

• How far in advance of my quilting date do you need to have my quilt top?
  ~ Upon email or phone consultation, I'll give you a date. Your quilt will be finished approximately 4 weeks after that.

• How do I prepare my quilt top for mailing?
  ~ After following the quilt prep guidelines above, please fold you quilt carefully and place it in a plastic bag - preferably not a black/green trash bag. (You don't want anyone accidentally helping you with the 'trash!')
  ~ Place it in a good sturdy box that will be large enough to accomodate your finished quilt. (Batting takes up space!)
  ~ Print and fill out the Order form as best you can, making sure your complete contact information is included, and place it inside the plastic bag.
  ~ Address it as indicated on my Contact page, and please don't indicate that there's a quilt in the box. Send it insured, and notify me by phone or email (preferably) that it's on its way. I'll let you know when it arrives.
  

Payment Options:

• Do you accept credit cards?
  ~ No, I only accept cash, checks, or money orders. If you like, you may make payments, as long as the quilt is paid for in full before it leaves my studio.
  ~ If paying by check, please make checks payable to Shirley Barter.
  

Border Tips :

• I measure, but when I sew them on, my borders are either too long or too short for the side of the top. Is it ok to stretch them to fit?
  ~ When you force border strips that are either too long or too short to fit the quilt top, you will end up with puckers along the seam line. These puckers, when quilted over, will result in pleats that will be the only thing you will see after your quilt is finished. Believe me - no matter how gorgeous the quilt, your eye will continually go to the pleats. For the rest of your life.

• Can't I just sew on a long strip and lop off anything that hangs off the end?
  ~ No! You know how when you sew two identical strips of fabric together, you always end up at the bottom and you still have a little of the top fabric left, but no more bottom fabric?  That's because the feed dogs grab the bottom length and pull it in at a faster rate than the top fabric. When you sew a long border piece to the quilt top without measuring, you are guaranteed to not have the right length of border piece, and your border will look 'wavy' - it won't lay flat or hang straight and smooth. When quilted, you will most likely get funny little 'poofy' part or pleats.

• Ok, how do I do it?
  ~ I'm afraid there's no other way to say this: You need to use the M-word. Math.
  1) Take 3 measurements across the quilt (length or width) - one at the top edge, one through the center, and one across the bottom edge. Add the numbers together and divide by 3. That gives you the average measurment. Cut 2 pieces of your border fabric to that exact length.
  2) Fold your border fabric in half, and press in a crease. Fold it in half again and press in another crease. Your border is now marked in fourths. Do the same with your quilt top, and mark with pins.
  3) Now match the outside edges and center and pin. Match the remaining pins/creases and pin. Now pin between the pins and sew. Using a walking foot helps with the 'nudging.' If your border strip needs a lot of nudging, sew it with the border touching the feed dogs, and the top facing you.
  4) Repeat for the remaining two sides, this time including the borders just attached in your measurement.
  

Who is that adorable baby at the top of the page?

• Why, that's Makala - my sweet little grandbaby! Thank you for asking!

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